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Toulouse is increasingly renowned for it's cool cafe culture and even cooler food. Style & choice with a price to suite every pocket. For a more gentler countryside style at a slower pace but with equal taste, try heading south out of the city into the rolling hills bordering the Pyrenees and you will find simple delights....
There is an ever-increasing trend towards healthy eating, buying direct from small-scale producers. BIO is the word. Here in the Ariege foothills of the Pyrenees there is an abudance of choice to fufill that idea. Weekly markets throughout the year brim with local produce; seasonal vegetables (even in winter) of all shapes, sizes and colours. Herbs and spices, most local, many exotic. Meat fresh from the local fields and the surrounding Region. As always, a vast selection of cheese, many direct from the Pyrenees, such as Bethmale. Sausages created by local artisans. Wines, cider and beers are locally produced from vines, apples, hops & barley, warming under the Pyrenees sun that shines deep into Autumn. And then these wonderful local produce are turned into equisite meals of simplicity, colour and taste in locally renowned restaurants. A selection are highlighted below. Recent changes allowing the planting of new vineyards throughout France will enable new producers, like Dominik Benz at Le Fossat, to meet ever-increasing demand and undoubtedly bring new ideas & exciting new products to our tables. Indeed, Dominik's BIO wines (albeit from an existing vineyard) are some of the very best I have ever tasted. Dominik provides a fascinating insight to wine prodction. Contact us to arrange a visit. |
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The Ariege; a gastronomic 'tour de force'.
Although seen by many historically as an agricultural backwater with menus to match, the Ariege has, in fact quickly developed a 'gastronomic edge' over recent years. A demonstration of this are 3 particular restaurants found in the valleys immediately around the picturesque village of Carla Bayle: Auberge Pierre Bayle in the village itself, Auberge de Fontescut in our own village of Sieuras and La Tomate du Jardin in Daumazan. We will briefly explore each.
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Auberge Pierre Bayle bears the name of the famous 18th century writer/philosopher born in the village, a 'founding-father' of the concept 'liberté, égalité, fraternité'. Fernand de Oliveira and his wife have produced fresh, visually beautiful, wonderfully tasty meals in the Auberge since 1998. When booking, make every effort to have table next to the wide windows overlooking the rolling hills to the Pyrenees mountain chain, jagged and magnificent in the sunset. Profit from the range of reasonably priced 'menus' to sample a delicious starter, main and desert...whether you are habitually a sweet -tooth or not! Also take a moment beforehand to visit the galleries in the village, particularly that of Tristran Ra (sample work below).
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AUBERGE PIERRE BAYLE
Rue Principale 09130 Carla-Bayle - Ariège Midi-Pyrénées auberge.pierrebayle@orange.fr T / 05 61 60 63 95 |
'Discover local cuisine du marché in a warm and friendly atmosphere.'
Auberge de Fountescut
Village 09130 Sieuras Réservations et informations au : 05 61 69 25 48. |
Auberge de Fontescut in the tiny, charming village of Sieuras that occupies a ridge commanding fine views over the surrounding fields offers a relaxed atmosphere in which you can enjoy Jean-François' fine cuisine at your leisure. Covers of never more than 15 people ensure you have the appropriate attention, service and guidance on your food journey. Start by sampling the many fortified wines on offer on your arrival. Then choose a 'menu' starting from 34 Euros that will take you through all the delights, from truly outstanding soups, impeccably cooked meats and dreamy deserts. Not forgetting in between an enormous 'assiette de fromages' & the specialite 'tete de veau' for those with a heartier appetite!
There is an excellent choice of wine and a 'digestif' will round off a thoroughly enjoyable evening or a long Sunday lunch! |
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La Tomate du Jardin. Ilona Rutgers and Lionel Sevenes produce inventive dishes based on BIO products, fresh vegetables and fruits. In the heart of the ancient village of Daumazan, their old clergy house is full of character and 'le jardin' offers a shady setting for fine lunches and long, warm evenings. Fish, meat and vegetarians options are always to be found. Local produce & recipes are wonderfully embelished with herbs and carefully chosen ingredients that compliment and enhance. As would be anticipated, a fine wine list is accompanied by Lionel's knowledge & gentle advice. Le Tomate is a thriving, welcoming restaurant that maintains impeccable service, attention to detail and a warm 'ambiance'. La Tomate may be notionally third in our list (for it is the furthest from Carla Bayle!) but each restaurant offers something different, special and all are equal in our recommendation.
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This is just the tip of the 'gastronomic- iceberg'. Throughout the Ariege fine, exciting or just plain quality for price food can be found. We will cover more in our Blog. You may also want to look at the Michelin guide.